Color Gels

COLOR GELS
LEVEL &
DESCRIPTOR
GREEN
NATURAL
LEVEL
UNDER
TONES
NATURAL ASH
NATURAL
NATURAL WARM
NATURAL GOLD
WARM GOLD
10NA Silk
10N Crème Latté
10NW Macadamia Nut
10NG Honey
10WG Crème Brulée
9NA Platinum Ice
9N Café au Lait
9NW Irish Creme
9NG Vanilla Creme
8NA Mojave
8N Sesame
8NW Safari
8NG Sunflower
7NA Mirage
7N Bamboo
7NW Chestnut
7NG Saffron
6NA Moroccan Sand
6N Suede
6NW Brandy
6NG St. Tropez
5NA Walnut
5N Coffee Bean
5NW Cappuccino
5NG Caramel
4NA Chicory
4N Hazelnut
4NW Maple
4NG Pecan
3N Espresso
3NW Mocha Java
RED / ORANGE
RED
®
RUBY BROWN
RED / VIOLET
5RB Manzanita
5RV Scarlett
4RB Mulberry
4RV Cabernet
CORRECTIVE
TONES
10
Ultra Pale
Blonde
9
Very Light
Blonde
9RO Papaya
8
Light
Blonde
8GN Ivy
8R Sun Fire
8WG Golden Apricot
7
Medium
Blonde
7RO Marigold
7R Flame
6RO Bonfire
6R Rocket Fire
6
Dark
Blonde
6GN Moss
6WG Mango
5
Light
Brown
5RO Paprika
4
Medium
Brown
4GN Forest
4WG Sun Tea
4R Lava
3
Dark
Brown
3RB Mahogany
2
Darkest
Brown
2NW Chocolate
1
Black
1NW Midnight
Swatches shown on white hair
UNDERSTANDING THE LABEL
WORKING WITH UNDERTONES
COLOR GELS is available in a 2 oz. (60ml) bottle. Each COLOR GELS shade is
identified by a number, which indicates level, and one or two capital letters
that indicate the tone of the shade.
Example:
8WG
Level (Light Blonde)
Tone (Warm Gold)
GOLDEN APRICOT
Undertones are the unrefined warm tones exposed during the lifting process.
Always consider the exposed undertones visible at the target level.
To counteract undertones, select a shade level with tonal value opposite to the
undertone exposed at the target level shown on the color wheel. Remember,
opposites neutralize.
To enhance undertones, select a shade with a tonal value similar to the undertone
exposed at the target level shown on the color wheel.
FORMULATION GUIDELINES
Shade Name (Golden Apricot)
2. Determine the target color (final level and tone) desired by your client.
10
DESCRIPTION
Ultra Pale Blonde
UNDERTONE
Pale Yellow
GUIDELINES FOR COVERING GRAY HAIR
COLOR GELS DEVELOPER is the ONLY developer recommended for use with
COLOR GELS levels 1-10 and BLONDING GELS. To vary the results:
COLOR GELS
DEVELOPER
LEVELS OF LIFT
USAGE
MINUTES
Violet
3. Determine the undertone found at the target level (see Level System chart).
Select the COLOR GELS shade and volume of developer needed to achieve
the target color.
Select a shade to enhance, balance or counteract undertones.
For standard lift and gray coverage, use 20 volume Color Gels Developer.
CORRECTIVE TONE
9
Very Light Blonde
Yellow
Violet
8
Light Blonde
Yellow/Orange
Blue/Violet
7
Medium Blonde
Orange
Blue
6
Dark Blonde
Red/Orange
Blue/Green
5
Light Brown
Red
Green
4
Medium Brown
Red/Violet
Yellow/Green
3
Dark Brown
Violet
2
Darkest Brown
Blue/Violet
1
Black
Blue
FOR LIFTING NATURAL PIGMENT
1. Natural Level: 5 light brown / 0% gray
2. Target Color: Level 7 medium blonde with natural tones
3. Undertone at Level 7: orange
4. Formula: 7NA Mirage + 20 volume Color Gels Developer
Coverage of gray hair is one of the services that clients request most often.
To cover gray means to minimize the contrast between natural hair and gray hair.
For the most effective gray coverage, follow the Gray Graph below.
Mix COLOR GELS shades in a 1:1 ratio of color to Color Gels Developer.
For example, mix 2 oz. (60ml) of COLOR GELS and 2 oz. (60ml) of Color Gels
Developer. Always use immediately after mixing.
1. Determine your desired result (top row).
Processing time varies depending on the volume of developer used (see chart).
2. Identify client’s percentage of gray (left column).
Process at room temperature. DO NOT USE HEAT.
Mix BLONDING GELS in a 1:2 ratio with 40 volume Color Gels Developer.
Example: Mix 1 oz. (30ml) BLONDING GELS + 2 oz. (60ml) 40 volume Color Gels
Developer. Always use immediately after mixing. Process for up to 45 minutes at
room temperature. DO NOT USE HEAT.
up to 1
minimal lift
20
3. Follow the formula guideline to the intersection of top row and left column.
20 volume
up to 2
standard lift/gray coverage
30
30 volume
up to 3
additional lift
40
4. Always mix COLOR GELS with an equal amount of the appropriate
Color Gels Developer.
40 volume
3+
maximum lift/Blonding Gels
45
NOTE: To maintain the most control when covering gray, select a formula no more
than two levels lighter than the natural hair. When using COLOR GELS Clear in your
formulation, the deposit of tone will be reduced. COLOR GELS Clear is not to be
used on clients with more than 25% gray.
NOTE: BLONDING GELS are NOT intermixable with other COLOR GELS levels
(1-10) shades.
BLONDING GELS
% of gray
GREEN
GN only
NATURAL NATURAL NATURAL NATURAL
ASH
WARM
GOLD
NA only
N
0% - 25%
4. Process at room temperature. DO NOT USE HEAT.
FORMULATION EXAMPLES:
FOR COVERING GRAY
1. Natural Level: 4 medium brown / 75% - 100% gray
2. Target Color: Level 6 dark blonde with natural tones
3. Undertone at Level 6: red / orange
4. Formula: 6NW Brandy + 20 volume Color Gels Developer
MIXING AND PROCESSING
10 volume
1. Determine your client’s natural hair color level using the COLOR GELS Natural
Warm (NW) family swatches found in the COLOR GELS swatchbook. Remember
to consider: Percentage of gray / Hair texture and condition / Hair density.
COLOR GELS LEVEL SYSTEM CHART
LEVEL
COLOR GELS DEVELOPER
25% - 50%
50% - 75%
75% - 100%
1 1/2 oz.
(45ml) GN
+
1/2 oz.
(15ml) NW or N
1 1/2 oz.
(45ml) NA
+
1/2 oz.
(15ml) NW
1 oz. (30ml) GN
+
1 oz. (30ml)
NW or N
1/2 oz. (15ml) GN
+
1 1/2 oz. (45ml)
NW or N
1 1/2 oz.
(45ml) NW
+
1/2 oz.
(15ml) NA
N
NW
1 oz. (30ml) NA
+
1 oz. (30ml) NW
N
NW
1/2 oz. (15ml) NA
+
1 1/2 oz.
(45ml) NW
N
NW
1 1/2 oz.
(45ml) NG
+
1/2 oz.
(15ml) WG
1 1/4
(37.5ml) NG
+
3/4 oz.
(22.5ml) WG
1 oz.
(30ml) NG
+
1 oz.
(30ml) WG
1/2 oz.
(15ml) NG
+
1 1/2 oz.
(45ml) WG
WARM
GOLD
1 1/2 oz.
(45ml) WG
+
1/2 oz.
(15ml) NW
WG
WG
WG
RED/
ORANGE
RED
1 1/2 oz.
(45ml) RO
+
1/2 oz.
(15ml) WG
1 1/2 oz.
(45ml) R
+
1/2 oz.
(15ml) WG
1 1/4 oz.
(37.5ml) RO
+
3/4 oz.
(22.5ml) WG
1 1/4 oz.
(37.5ml) R
+
3/4 oz.
(22.5ml) WG
1 oz.
(30ml) RO
+
1 oz.
(30ml) WG
1 oz.
(30ml) R
+
1 oz.
(30ml) WG
1/2 oz.
(15ml) RO
+
1 1/2 oz.
(45ml) WG
1/2 oz.
(15ml) R
+
1 1/2 oz.
(45ml) WG
RUBY
BROWN
RB
RB
RB
RB
RED
VIOLET
1 1/2 oz.
(45ml) RV
+
1/2 oz.
(15ml) NW
1 1/4 oz.
(37.5ml) RV
+
3/4 oz.
(22.5ml) NW
1 oz.
(30ml) RV
+
1 oz.
(30ml) NW
1/2 oz.
(15ml) RV
+
1 1/2 oz.
(45ml) NW
FPO
FPO
FPO
FPO
I - blue
level 5
II - blue-violet
level 6
III - violet
level 7
Clear
level 5
Swatches shown on natural level
COLOR GELS
Clear
level 5
Swatch shown on natural level
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